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Changing Chefs, Gotham Bar and Grill Starts a New Era

Until this year, Gotham Bar and Grill without Alfred Portale was as hard to imagine as Cuba without at least one Castro. Mr. Portale was not the first chef at Gotham, but he took the job so soon after the restaurant opened in 1984, and kept doing it for so long, that when he finally left in ...

Llama San Is Not a Typical Postcard From Peru

Erik Ramirez isn’t playing with the usual set of flavors at his new restaurant, Llama San. He isn’t putting them together in the usual ways, either. The starting point of his menu is Nikkei cuisine, the hybrid style forged by Japanese cooks living in Peru, but Mr. Ramirez hasn’t let himself ...
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